Overall, I think the doublet turned out pretty well. I like the look of it, but I'm having real problems with the front closure. Mainly, it doesn't want to close up in the front without gapping between hooks. It's also obviously straining the fabric at the center front in a sort of weird way. I think the fact that the fabric is inherently shiney makes the effect of the wrinkling look worse than it actually is, but I'm not sure how to remedy this. I have an idea that might work and that is to add boning to the center front and where the wrinkling is occuring to make it lie smoother. But it's still not going to fix the gapping problem. I get the impression that the doublet is just a tad too small for me, and that it need maybe a 1/2 inch or so more give to eliminate the gap. I sort of don't want to take it apart because the only place that has enough seam allowance is at the side back seams which are covered with trim. I guess I *could* take it appart and it wouldn't be too much trouble... The alternative would be to add a bit more trim at the center front and kind of fake it... Hmmm.

On the plus side, I was able to cram myself into my corset more than I was expecting to. Last time I tried it on, I was unable to get the edges to meet in front, but I'm back to about 1/4 inch gap at front like I was a year ago. This is comforting since I was worrying that I might have to remake some of my costumes if I've gained too much circumfrence. I'm going to play around some more and see if I can't eek out some extra room and see if that solves the gapping problem.

Okay, I discovered that my side seams were actually big enough to take out and make bigger, so here's the end result. Looks a lot better, don'tcha think? The wrinkling is gone for the most part and the gap is not as bad. The doublet is actually about 1/2 inch too big for me, now which means that I've got some expansion room if I need it, I guess.

I also noticed that the trim on the front of the bodice is a bit uneven, so I found a bunch of gold metalic lace left over from the gold brocade dress project last year and I'm going to use it to even out the center front. I have enough to actually edge all the trimmed areas of the doublet, too. Here you can see it just pinned in place to make the front trim look even.

Next step: The shoulder treatement. I'm kind of leaning towards not doing any shoulder treatment, but I can always be inspired to change my mind.

One thing's for sure: I love the sheen of the silk/wool!!! I figured out that its a wool backing with a silk top (hell if I know which one is a warp and which one is a weft) because it appears that bugs munched through the wool parts in certain areas and stopped once they got through to the silk. Sure is perrty, though!

6-19-02

Okay, so last night I got 2/3rds of the gold lace trim onto the doublet (it's half sewn on the collar and the side back lace is pinned on in these pics). It's looking gooooood, I must say! :) Jen gave some good suggestions for the wrinkling and gapping problem. I followed her advice and sewed a double layer of cotton batting between the lining and shell on the front of the doublet, to give it some extra support. Then, to fix the gapping, I added a row of lacing strips on either side of the hooks and eyes. I can now lace the doublet tight enough to get the hook and eyes to overlap without gapping. YAY!!!

6-20-02

No pics, just the update. I've been sewing like mad the last day and managed to finish the skirt, add the gold lace to the front of it, pleat it, and sew it to the bodice. All this in one night while housesitting for my boss. I am exhausted and it shows (the damn cat kept me up all night, too). One happy thought to look forward to: My friend Tiana called me and invited me to go to the Tudor Fayre on Sunday! I'll be wearing the dress there!

6-21-02

Again, no pics, only the update. I think I'm comming down with a cold, or I'm just succumbing to exhaustion. I left work early today with the intention of catching up on some sleep, but instead I went on a 5 hour sewing binge and managed to finish the dress! I added payned upper sleeves in liu of a shoulder treatment and added different gold lace to them because I ran out of the other stuff after finishing the skirt. I put the dress on and discovered that the skirt was about an inch too short! It's always something, you know? But not to worry! I added some dark orange grosgrain ribbon to the edge of the hem and it not only gives me the right length, but works like a dust ruffle, too!

But the dress does look positively gorgeous! It's funny... I think it's the color more than anything. Most people have an aversion to orange, but I think it's one of the yummiest colors out there and I've found, with this dress, that it can be a really stunning color in a costume. Especially with lots and lots of gold trim. Anyhoo, I'll have pictures of it on Sunday!

6-23-02

Bad news... I didn't get to go to the Tudor Fayre, after all. Something happened to my friend and she's disapeared off the face of the planet and is not answering her phone messages. I'm kinda worried as this isn't characteristic of her... But since I promised photos to y'all, I figured I'd better deliver. Follow the link to see TheUnbelievably Orange Dress for yourself!