The Courtesan Dress

To read about the construction of this gown, go here.

 Updated 9-14-06

I've had this gown for 2 years and finally got around to making some changes to it that I've always intended on making. The most extensive part of the remodel was focused on the slevees. Since I'd taken the original pair off this gown and put them on the Bermondsey Gown, I took the remaining pieces of silk damask and made a new pair of sleeves, complete with more elaborate shoulder treatment based on this portrait. I added silk organza to the shoulder treatment and basted it in place. I had some elaborate 10" wide lace from ages ago and I cut it down to about 7" and used it for the cuffs. A small frill of silk organza was basted into the sleeve opening.

The rest of the modification entailed adding a silk taffeta lining to the skirt, which already had a cotton/linen lining (which became an interlining), in order to get more fullness. Over the years, the damask and the cotton/linen lining had begun to droop so the taffeta revived it a little bit (still not enough for me to be totally happy with it, though). I also had to take appart the hem facing and recut the hem because, for some unknown reason, I cut it totally wonky originally and one side was an inch longer than the other. The skirt was repleated with knife pleats in the front, and cartiridge pleats from side seam to side seam. I like the look of the flat front better than the weird poochy effect that the original cartridge pleats had at the front of the skirt.

This gown had quite a summer, as well. It was worn for the Gala at Costume College and then was packed up and brought to Bristol, where it was worn yet again on Sunday. It has become one of my stalwart, tried and true outfits, and I have to say, I've never worn any of my costumes as much as I have this one.

Photo Credit: Kendra Van Cleave

Jewelry:

I had originally made a matching necklace and girdle 2 years ago which I ended up dismantling and adding new components to for the current incarnation of the dress.

The pearls are 12mm glass pearls interspersed with vermille gold beads on the girdle, and capped with black flower endcaps on the necklace and earrings (all from Firemountain Gems). The pendant int the middle is from Pewter Replicas by Steve Millingham and is gold plated pewter set with garnets and cubic zirconia.

Original Incarnation - July 2004

More Photos - August 2006

About the Hair:

I have been asked several times recently if all the elaborate hairstyles I do are with my real hair. The answer is no. I am a big fan of good quality fake hair pieces and wigs for reproducing historical hairstyles. That said, the horns, seen in the last two photos above (taken at Bristol), are done with my real hair and nothing but a ton of bobby pins and strong hold hairspray. They are a variation on 1940's rolls, which I more or less learned how to do with a lot of experimentation and this tutorial. The braided part was done by Melissa, since no matter how good I get at period hair, I'll never be able to braid my own worth a damn.